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The Silver Enthusiast

Newsletter #1 • September 9, 2011


Repair of Plated Presentation Cup

All that glitters? Well, someone got ahold of this Rogers 1881 plated regatta trophy and decided it would look infinitely better with glued 3-dimensional sparkles. When I received it I was horrified, then amused. The customer wanted to donate it to the Fall River (MA) Historical Society, and requested it be put back to the condition it was in prior to its defacing. I removed the glue and sparkles, reattached the oar section, straightened the cup, removed dents, corrected the body and cover rims, and gave it some major cleaning. It's now ready to be seen by the public with just enough silver remaining to make it presentable. Note: There are three contact points on the finial where there was most likely a sailboat figurine. (This wasn't a rowing event as there are sailboats engraved on the opposite side of the cup.)
 

Contact


Herman Silver
Restoration &
Conservation

PO Box 786
West Warwick, RI 02893
800.339.0417
401.461.6840
hermansilver.com

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Tarnish Formation

Below are images showing opposite sides of a silverplated luncheon knife exposed to the open air for 14 months. The top image is the knife as it sat on a buffet, face up. The bottom image is of the side that was facing down and, therefore, not directly exposed to harmful tarnish-producing particulate. This is a clear illustration that silver will maintain its finish over a longer period when kept in a case or enclosed cabinet. (There should be no off-gassing from the case or cabinet. If it is made of wood, the interior surface should be sealed, preferably with lacquer or water-based polyurethane. If latex paint is used, allow it to dry for at least four months.)






The Art of Pulse Arc Welding

Occasionally, a piece will come to my workshop that can’t be repaired with conventional soldering. This is where pulse arc welding, a technique I started using in 2010, comes in handy. The creamer pictured below came in with three of its four legs improperly reattached with lead solder. Also, under the globs of solder were areas of missing silver. I removed all visible lead. As I couldn’t visually inspect the interior of the hollow leg supports to confirm that I had removed every last bit of lead, it was impossible for me to use a high-temperature silver solder. This would have run the risk of any remaining lead “eating” a hole in the supports and the creamer body. Lead loves silver and, when heated past its melting temperature, will “consume” the silver it’s attached to. Prior to my taking up arc welding, I would have been forced to rebuild the missing silver areas with sterling sheet and a low-temperature tin/silver solder. This solder has better color and is stronger than tin/lead solder, but is not nearly as strong as high-temperature silver solder. This is where the pulse arc welder saved the day. This technique allowed me to use sterling wire as the repair material, forming a strong bond and matching the creamer's color perfectly.


The green image is from photographing through the PUK2 filter that shields the eyes from the arc flash.
 
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